Relocation, relocation, relocation

As I have began a new adventure I decided to create a new space to share my scribbling. 

If you give a shit please find the new blog here: 

https://lostwithoutapaddle.wordpress.com/

Flights booked, the waiting game begins.

So, as the last post reflected, a path of indecisiveness has been logically resolved by booking a one way flight to Mexico. Thomas Dance and I will be leaving the UK on the 31st January, and our adventures through Central and South America will begin.

Our route, at this stage consists of the following:

Mexico - Belize - Guatemala - Honduras - Nicaragua - Costa Rica - Panama - Colombia - Ecuador - Peru - Chile.

This has required a lot lot of tough decisions to be made, a relocation, many arguments, a lot of saving and nearly losing my job. However, the best things in life are the scariest and living begins once you leave your comfort zone. I am ready to embrace the next adventure with open arms. Oh, and I can not wait to start writing again. 

Oh, here it goes

After much deliberation, I have decided it's time to get back to blogging. This, obviously is due to my inflated sense of self worth and the belief that people may actually be interested in what I want to say. This is also due to post-graduation breakdown and the desperate scramble for a sense of purpose. Both, in my eyes are legitimate and honest excuses for this self styled relaunch. Obviously, the first intention of this blog was to update my family (and other random people) about my adventures in Turkey. That was nearly three years ago now, and so the situation must adapt. So, if youre interested in my writing, my thoughts and opinions and my occasional rants, you will be delighted with the up and coming posts. If not, screw you. 

A year ago today.

I sit here writing this and cannot believe that this time last year my adventure was just starting. On the 9^th of September 2012 I left everything I knew and loved to live in a city I’d never been to before in a country I knew very little about. And it was the best decision of my life to date.

I am writing this as my last blog entry for a while. Until I hit the road again for my next adventure, wherever or whenever that will be. It is scary and exciting to not know where my life will take me, but I hope it will continue on the path it has started on.

My last few weeks in Turkey were quite literally a riot.  The Turkish people took to the streets, and things got pretty scary pretty quickly. A highlight of this was definitely speeding through a fog of teargas in a taxi as we drove past a man wearing a gas mask with a huge bleeding cut on his head.  Through this craziness I have never been more thankful for my Turkish family, who quite literally took me under their wings and let me move in for my last month in Turkey. Although my actual father was equally as helpful .(note: I had a lot of panicked phone calls from my very worried Dad advising me to leave Turkey as soon as I could… and if I was to go anywhere, to take an “emergency bag” with me – later this was greeted with hilarity as images of battling through a war-torn country with only my handy emergency bag with clean knickers and a toothbrush inside came to mind)

People have said time and time before that Erasmus would change your perspective of the world. I used to pass this off as a bit flowery and generally a bit crap. However, the opportunities that this year has bought me, the friends I have made from all over the world, and obtaining a second family is something that has blown me away. I have learnt more about myself than I could ever know, and turns out I am pretty bloody resilient, and can surprise myself with what I can achieve.

I have met some friends for life (not you Rafay) and been consistently amazed with how people from all over the world, from completely different backgrounds can come together in friendships that defy all notions of religion, patriotism and politics.

This summer, and my return to England has not been kind for a long list of reasons. I have lost 2 of my best friends through very upsetting circumstances. However, when I am feeling sad – I look back on the Evie that would have sat in the same position I am in now a year ago – and she is a completely different person to who I am now. I genuinely think the Evie of pre-turkey would have survived the summer I have just endured!  So thanks Attaturk for giving me that strength.

So, with that I would like to thank all of those who have followed my story, my blog and my updates. I have genuinely loved writing them – and reading them back is so rewarding. I cannot wait until the time comes where blogging is justified once more.

Finally, I would like to thank everyone who made this year what it was. Thank you to the Stannard family clan for constantly reassuring me. Thank you to my friends who shared these incredible experiences with (ERASMUS FOREVER MAAAAN) and thank you to all those who are probably sick to death hearing about it. Thank you to all my pupils of English Speaking Club at the Parliament for putting up with me, and teaching me so much in return. Thank you to the Gokcimen aile who took me into their home, their family and their hearts. You have redefined what kindness is. 

 Finally, thank you to Turkey. A country so rich and diverse, whose populace is passionate and occasionally absolutely crazy.

Until next time,

Iyi geceler. Evie. (Ivy) 

- I would like to dedicate this final post to my late Grandpa - Frank Stannard. His love of travelling and his stories has ignited a passion to see the world since I was tiny. I wouldn't be who I am today without you Grandpa. You're my inspiration.

Her Yer Ankara, Her Yer Direniş - Ankara Protests.

I sit here, writing this entry sat on my balcony on the 9^th of June 2013. All I can see and hear around me is the flickering of apartment lights on and off and the sound of the banging of pots and pans.  Many have said that Turkey has woken up, has been reformed by resistance of the people. For me,  Turkey will be a memory in 4 days time as I head back to England. However, the events that have taken place here in the last 10 days have taught me so much about belief, solidarity, resistance, undeterred will and general bad-assness.  These past 10 days have taught me more about the diversity of the Turkish people, the politics of a State  in balancing secularism within a population of 90% Muslim,  and the kindness of the Turkish people; their very firm stance of brotherhood and sisterhood within a culture. It has also taught me that no matter how many things stand in your way, it is absolutely vital to stick to the causes that are important to you, whether this may be as an individual or as a collective unit. It has also taught me how to deal with teargas, that 12 years in power can thwarp a mind, and milk and lemons is essential to any protest in Turkey.  Plus, when it is your friends that are out there, putting themselves in danger, it moves the politics of a situation from your brain to your heart.

A brief explanation of what the hell I’m talking about;
- For those of you who have not have access too, have has biased reports of, or are just plain ignorant too the happenings in Turkey in the last 10 days, I shall provide a brief summary. Please remember whilst reading this that is just my understand of things, which may not be complete, or may have some falsities. In this part, I shall try and remain impartial  - for the rest, I won’t.  Stannard Storm may be imminent.

On the 31^st of May 2013, Gezi Park’s peaceful protests were abruptly ended by the Turkish police.  People, who had occupied the park in protest to the Prime Minister’s plans to destroy the last space of greenery in central Istanbul , were gassed in the middle of the night. These people had conducted themselves peacefully, conducting book readings and playing music. Force was not on the agenda for them, until it was used against them. However, let us not obsess over the issue of the park. The park, was indeed the straw that broke the camels back (if you will allow such a cliché).

So, if it is not about  a park – then what it is all about? As a foreigner, the superficiality of my understanding may be apparent as I attempt to discuss these dissatisfaction which have led to 10 days of protest, once more let me reiterate that in no way am I claiming to be an authoritative voice on the matter, but to offer my 2 cents on the situation. Working at the Turkish Parliament, and being a student of Politics and IR may give me some credential, however this is weakened by the fact I look like a bush baby and struggle to walk in a straight line on a daily basis.

The general line of argument may be perceived as followed: Turkey is a secular nation. Attaturk built Turkey to be a secular Nation, and grounded it’s republicanism on this. Everybody loves Attaturk, he is the boss.   Recep Tayyip Erdogan, is the leader of the AKP Party. He has been Prime Minister since 2002. In the last 3 consecutive years the AKP Party has received over 50% of the vote. Voting is compulsory in Turkey, however namely unpunished if not conducted.  Many have commented on Erdogan’s growing ego, exercise of power and detachment from the populace. Many are also afraid of a creeping islamification of the secular state, under Erdogan himself. This can be expressed in his very public admittance that he thinks everyone who drinks Alcohol is an alcoholic, and that Ayran is the national drink of Turkey. However, statements like this regularly are regurgitated as rhetoric which shed no light of political analysis.

Yet, there is a sign of growing conservative influence. For example in Ankara, a couple were scorned for showing “immoral” behaviour for kissing on the Underground. This was answered with a “kissing protest” on the Metro. In addition, previous to the Gezi Park Spark (I like that, it has a ring to it) a law was passed banging the selling of alcohol from 10pm-7am. Now, this may seem reasonable, however, Turkey does not have a health issue with alcohol, so claims that it is done as a concern for public health is invalid. Another example are proposals that Turkish Airlines have redrafted their female staff’s uniform to be an ankle length skirt, and wrist length sleeve – a stark contrast to the mini skirts that we see today. These are only a few examples, but reflect the increasing consensus of the growing influence religion may be having on the Government. Correlated with Erdogan’s growing use of force, and a mind-set which could be described as authoritarian it provides a hotbed of concern for the Turkish populace.

These fears of authoritarianism were spearheaded during the destruction of Gezi park’s protested. These people were met with such force. With no warning. Treated like criminals by the agents of their own government, merely for exercising their right to protest. And this is why we are in the situation where we are today… this is why I cannot distinguish if I can hear gun shots or fireworks from my window.

What has happened?

And so, the people of Turkey took to the streets. First, in Istanbul – where blood stained the Oxford Street of Turkey. Secondly, Ankara,Izmir,Eskishehir and other large cities. The ethos was this; Everywhere is Taksim Square. Everyone in Turkey feels the brutality of the Gezi Park extradition, everyone is united against a potentially tyrannous government.

And so, people rallied. Those who were too terrified of the brutality of the police stood on their balconies, flashed their lights and banged their pots and pans together. Those who did not agree with this way of thinking, sat in silence for the time being, but this was to change. As my experience has been in Ankara, I will focus on the happenings of my city; but in no way undermine the severity in other Turkish cities. Her Yer Ankara, Her Yer Direniş.

GuvenPark has been the Taksim Square on Ankara, on the 1^st of June, as many woke up to the news of Istanbul (most likely from foreign sources as the Turkish media attempted to marr these happenings – will be discussed later) people congregated. Many were chanting along the lines of, we are all in Taksim, at this point the overtly anti-Erdogan chants were perhaps a minority, but this was to increase as the days ticked by and the violence increased. As the people showed their force, so did the Police, however the latter reflected a force of brutality, whilst the former reflected a force of a collective satisfaction, the will of the people and so on.

The brutality by the Police is something that a European could not comprehend. You hear stories of such brutality, but seeing the bandages and people on crutches at your university the next day hammers it home. Although official reports admit that 4 people have died and 70 people have been injured in Ankara, I know for a solid fact that the numbers are far far far higher. Images, in their crass reality our perhaps the best way to express this;

And so, this situation continued; the police trying to quell any form on congregation with pre-emptive tear gassing. Reports have suggested that the tear gas was infused with derivatives of “Agent Orange.” Police, violent in their manner rounded people up and tear gassed them until they could not see or breathe. They viciously beat people protesting. One friend told me of a story where a girl was placing milk in strategic positions (known to help quell the effects of the gas) as police were trying to remove this milk. She questioned the police officer, claiming that the milk belonged to her and he had no right to move it, they argues for five minutes, until he sprayed the gas in her face from a proximity of a few metres.

And yet, the people still came to the streets, understandably more angry than when they had began. There have been days where the police have allowed for the protests to remain peaceful, with minimal action. Kugulu Park has turned into a make shift library, with people congregating and sharing knowledge and information. But predominately, these protests may be defined as this: The battle of determination of brutality of the Police and the equal determination of the Turkish people in not being intimidated by said brutality. 

Check below sources;

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0cCKqhc3zuQ

http://turkishpolicebrutality.tumblr.com/

And so, the situation and it’s conclusion remains unclear. Still, on the 10^th night the streets of this city are full with those defending their democratic right. Many urge for Erdogan to step down, to end his authoritarian rule. However, increasingly those whom support Erdogan have been present in a street, fighting alongside the police. There have been stories of the AKP Youth Branch attacking lone protestors and beating them to a pulp. Many of these pro-AKP supporters chant slogans along the lines of “If they raise their hands to the police, we will break their arms” and “We will die for you Tayiip.” The situation of a possible civil war is increasingly becoming more and more realistic.

The reaction of officials have been infuriating. The Mayor of Ankara has been seen on TV saying things along the lines of “You should be glad that we live in Democracy, or you all would be crushed…we can drown you”. Erdogan also was reported to have said, reffering to the Gezi Park Spark, that “if you love the tree’s so much, perhaps you should hang from them”

To quote my friend, Firat Senol – to understand Erdogan may be seen in this way;

“To understand Erdogan one must first understand a Turkish concept; the “Kabadayi”. Roughly translated as “rough uncle” it is a term used to describe those who society hasn't quite polished. While it is an insult in educated circles in Turkey it tends to bemore of a back-handed compliment amongst the majority of Turks. It is someone, who while rough around the edges, doesn't have time to deal with the niceties of society. 
A kabadayi would never back down from a fight. Never admit that he was wrong. Just bull through everything and anything, deaf to any naysayers and haters. He has created a belief in himself that he is always right, a belief that sustains his very sanity during his rampages. A delusional belief that prevents him from seeing his real role in society; that of a self absorbed bully.
What happens when the kabadayi has a personality so strong that it projects this belief of “right”? Then we have what Turkish politics has become. Erdogan left to another country during the protests to send a message; 'I'm not worried about these loser and neither should you be.' His belief that this would blow over before he came back was just that too. He has attempted, semi-successfully, to convince the foreign media that this is just a phase, that the protesters will get over it.
That is why for the last few days Erdogan, rather than attempting to apologise, has just tried to roll over said protests. It has why he has branded a group that includes some of his former supporters as vandals, terrorists, extremist, separatists, and insisted that they are marginal groups. 
Yet one can, using a bit of thought, use this to describe the government and those opposing the protests themselves. The tear gas canisters that damaged all the cars on my street were just lobbed down the street. Vandalism. The way the police have attacked protesters and created an atmosphere of fear, killing some of them in the process and illegally kidnapping others while threatening further retaliation. State terrorism. The slogan chanted at his speech “give us guidance and we'll go, go crush Taksim”. The insistence between “us” and “them”in his speech. Separatism.
This is, however, why he is so popular. He doesn't try, like the ineffective opposition, to say things that apply to all citizens of the republic. He doesn't give politically correct speeches. He talks to a section of the country that has dedicated themselves to his rhetoric. He makes them feel something that they haven't been able to feel under the secular elite; that they are the ones ruling the country. He gives them an opponent to unite against. Which is beginning to backfire. It was all fine when those protesting were university students or members of the opposition party. Now there is no leadership to blame. The is no ethnic, religious, political, or ideological divide amongst the protesters. Without the usual clumsy flailing of the opposition the government's separatist tendencies have been brought to the fore.And this is scaring some of their supporters. The resignation of one of their lawyers in Igdir is just the beginning of an intellectual leak from the AKP. People are finding their confrontation remarks, their warlike demanor, and their towering arrogance hard to stomach. Even the head of the police union (Emniyet-Sen) has asked the people not to blame the police for following orders; but the government for issuing them.I'm not so convinced. If a policeman offers me his hand; I'll shake it. I don't think I'll ever trust them again. Not after Wednesday. Not after protesters were caught completely unaware and unprepared. I don't give credence to people's fear that this will just die down as a result of the police attempting to exercise constraint. I think the fact that Erdogan can't travel without an enormous police escort while Assad is capable of walking through Damascus with minimal bodyguards a true sign of what our Prime Minster believes about the will of the people; not what he says. The fact that they had to postpone his flight and send out messages to gather enough people for him to give his speech shows how much his popularity has waned.”

The Turkish Media

In addition, the Turkish Media’s dealing of these events have been very interesting as a foreigner. On the first few days, caught in the confusion of anarchy and without a proclaimed direction for the resistance, many Turkish News Agencies simply had very limited coverage of the events. As it grew very evident that this wasn’t going to just fizzle away, the Government owned, controlled or indebted too reflected a very thwarted view of the events. Even the BBC reflects the protests as somewhat barbaric and unimportant – I have never been so ashamed of my national media as I have been in the reporting of the events in Turkey. Social Media has been the agent to which I have received ALL my news and events – and pray for one day an impartial media body… which is impossible.

The Future?

As it stands, the future for Turkey during these days on unrest is very unclear. The issue being, Erdogan – was democratically elected as the leader of the AKP. The parliamentary system of the Turkish Parliament allows ruling parties to express pretty much absolute power over the parliament, teamed with being in charge for 12 years the ego-ism is perhaps understandable, if not justified. Many argue that there is not a worthy alternative to form a strong Government, which is arguably what Turkey needs as a growing economy at a stage of transition. However, what can not and must not be ignored is the reasons behind these protests. These dissatisfactions are deep, divisive and could conclude in the diversity of Turkey to become a bloody conflict, rather than a peaceful multiculturalism.

Whatever happens…

Whatever happens, however, one thing must be remembered. The undeterred bravery of the Turkish People. Their passion and drive is something I have never seen anywhere else, and has affected me to my core. The compassion and will of those who are willing to put themselves in danger night after night is something I whole heartedly admire. These people do NOT fuck about. I have never seen such solidarity, such compassion and such heart as I have in those that face the brutality of the police.

For me, I will leave Ankara in just a few days time. The situation in Ankara, in Turkey will continue. This will not be forgotten, whatever the outcome. To my friends that continue to fight for your cause, thank you for gracing with the knowledge that nothing is impossible, and through bravery, will and knowledge… resistance is never futile. We are the people, and thus we are the power. To all those who have risked themselves, I thank you for once more shifting politics from my head, back into my heart. 

Taxi drivers protecting people from TOMA water cannons. 

Turkey – Seni Seviyorum. You will never be alone.

Her Yer Turkiye, Her Yer Direniş

Everywhere is Taksim Square

As I write this, I am finding it hard to breathe as tear gas is creeping in through the windows - I can hear at least 9 sirens. Ankara is well and truly burning. 

On the 31^st of  May, 2013 police tear gassed peaceful protesters in Gezi Park, Istanbul. These people were protesting against AKP Government plans to destroy the last bit of greenery in central Istanbul, which was planned to be replaced by a huge mall and a mosque.

 From this point, the situation in Turkey has, quite honestly, gone fucking ape shit.

 DO NOT believe the Turkish Media, they are government controlled and biased. I know for a fact that 100's of people have been severely injured in Ankara alone, and suspect the death toll - if not already started is rising.  

 As I write this we are entering the fourth day of  violence in both Istanbul and Ankara. Other cities are engaged in political unrest, but the epicenter which was previously Istanbul, has now shifted to Ankara.

I will discuss the reasons why this is happening at a later date, when my braincell's are on my side and my head does not feel like it is made of playdough. 

For now, let me express to my family that I am in good hands, I am safe and I am avoiding any unnecessary danger. I do not wish to worry you - but this information NEEDS to be shared and understood. If we rely on the Turkish media as our outlet of the events in this city, it will be distorted and tell a fake truth.

Let be repeat the ethos of these uprisings. This is not about a park. This is about democracy. This is not about unnecessary destruction and vandalism, this is about the fundamental right of expression. 

If you advocate expression, democracy and fundamental human rights you will realize this and adopt the idom that: Everyone is Taksim Square. You are Taksim Square. We are Taksim Square. (Although at this point in the proceedings, it is safe to say we are all Kizilay Square.) 

Please, share this with as many as you can. It is important these images and this message is spread. 

For now I will leave you with these images.

A very reflective Evie Stannard - who's Erasmus experience is definitely something different. 

.

 Ankara - 01.06.2013. The "Steam" is Tear Gas. There have been reports of Agent Orange being used mixed with regular gas - a substance banned by the UN

 A bit of light relief 

 Regular citizens doing their shopping in Gas Masks.

Credit goes to those who took these photographs.

Friends - these images and these circumstances need to be shared globally. Turkish Media is limiting what the international realm hears. The situation is grave. Yet, solidarity between protesters and the strength of the Turkish people in continuing their fight for expression and freedom is admirable.

Stay safe Ankara. 

 

Karadeniz – Do you know about Muslims

Apologies for my less than average attempt at blogging recently. It has been an extremely stressful and uncertain time for me, as my lovely housemate decided to kick me and Maiju out of our home because we didn't invite him to a party. With three weeks left in Turkey, this was not fun. The reality of staying on peoples sofas for a few weeks, along with 9 months’ worth of my stuff that I had collected was not ideal. However, the situation was resolved with many thanks to Phil – who agreed to take us in for a week or two. Many Thanks.

So, let us rewind for a week or two. Imagine it is the 1^st of May. Close your eyes and let the waves of time take you there. Okay children? So I shall begin.

IT ALL STARTED ON THE 1^ST OF MAY. Jannet, Marijke and Steffi  - Marijke’s friend from Holland (the most wonderful dutch ladies) Lorenzo, Andrea (the best Italians in Turkey) and myself were to begin our venture to the North. With a very severe lack of planning, we were on our way to Samsun. The over night bus ride which is now standardized in my Erasmus year was bearable, and made amusing by the bustime snack of “finger time” cake. We arrived in Samsun at 6 am – and spent a lot of time milling around the bus station trying to figure out our next plan of action. Finally, we managed to take a shuttle bus to the harbour, which was followed by a small nap on the harbour steps. We walked along being the only people awake in the small city. After a few hours we had our Turkish Coffees, I read everyones fortune’s (Fal – the reading of someone’s fortunes through the remainders of their Turkish coffee is a skill I have perfected over here!) Andrea got shit on by a Pigeon and we decided that Samsun wasn’t so good. As soon as we could we jumped on another bus to Unye – a small town along the coast. We arrived at Unye at about mid day – quickly haggled a hotel down to a satisfactory price and then began to enjoy ourselves. We grabbed lunch, with the help of 3 15 year old school boys who were fascinated by the Italians and minced off to find a beach to spend the day on. (or the beeeiiiiitttccccccccchhhh in Italian)

Following this, we grabbed some dinner and had a very pleasant walk along the harbour.

The next day we headed to Ordu – another small town on the North. After jumping off the Dolmus rather suddenly, Jannet realized she had left her purse on the bus. With everything in. Panic. However, after about 30 mins of flapping and trying to figure out which way the bus station was – I received a call from Serap – my Turkish friend who had originally bought our tickets to Samsun. She told us that Jannets purse was found and given into the Ordu bus station! The luckiest thing ever!!!

Following this fiasco, was a fiasco of my own. You know when you’re scared of something and then you always think you’re not scared because you haven’t done it for a while? Yeah…  turns out you’re still scared. I discovered this unfortunate truth on the cable car, which was 9888888208382 miles high and took about 6 hours to get to the top of the mountain that shadowed Ordu. Luckily, my friends let me squeeze their hands to death to try and assist me. But jesus, I am so scared of heights its unreal. However, it was worth it with an absolutely amazing view over the ocean and the country side that bordered it. The north is a really special place, and so so so so so green in comparison to the sapphire blue ocean. Once more, we sat ate and slept. What goes up must come down is a very unfortunate truth as I faced my fears once more to head back down. We once more strolled along the harbour, being the only foreigners in sight and had to sneakily drink beers in the park like 14 year olds. The north is a lot more conservative than I first thought.   That night, we decided to head to Trabzon – the whole aim of the trip to the north itself. And thank god we did, as here is where it gets good.

As we sat at Ordu bus station, with our best friend who worked for the bus company, getting us free tea and making sure we were very well looked after we got a lot of looks. Most of us are used to this now, always exclaiming “Yabanci var” when we feel we’re being looked at. There was a family sat on the bench next to us consisting of a three year old girl, two women and a teenage boy. They were very interested in us and we tried to have a very limited conversation. When we stopped for cay, we thought it would be a good idea if they could call ahead to a hotel for us as we had nowhere to stay and it was already 10pm. This was met with an invitation to stay at their house in Trabzon. After literally a minutes deliberation we all decided that this was an amazing offer and very happily took them up on it. (This involved a lot of very bad Turkish, very bad English and a man on the phone that apparently spoke English. He could not  understand me, but he understood Lorenzo’s English perfect – perhaps they were on the same level!) Upon arriving in Trabzon we all gathered to enter the unknown. In a matter of minutes we were in our own private dolmus, along with flashing disco lights and very very loud, very very old trance music. Odd. We arrived at their home to meet their mother, a very traditional looking woman who was about 4ft tool, about 5 metres wide and dressed in very tradition clothing. She welcomed us with such a huge smile on her face. All 6 of us crammed into the apartment that consisted of only 4 rooms. Together we were 11 people. We sat down to one of the most delicious meals I have ever eaten in Turkey. All prepared by the mother at about midnight, it was absolutely incredible. Followed by home made Baklava and buckets of cay we were all so full we could not move. The three year old that I mentioned before had taken a shining to me – and we quickly became best friends playing games of “Kedi Nerede?” (Where’s the Kitty – in reference to her bedraggled stuffed yellow cat) “Kedi Var!” followed by lots of kisses. Within a few hours she refused to not be by my side, even though I was very sick of asking where the kitty was. I was also told by the mother of the family that I was not allowed to leave the house, as she thought I would make a very fine wife for her 15 year old son. Poor boy, he was so embarrassed. It was funny for the first time but after about the 7^th mention I actually thought I was going to be kidnapped and never seen again by my family.  At about 3am, after hours and hours of broken conversation and funny moments we were finally allowed to all cram in and get some rest. It is amazing how much fun you have when neither of the parties can understand one another.

In the morning we were treated once more to amazing Turkish hospitality, with the most impressive and tasty Turkish breakfast I have ever eaten. Incredible. Following this, we ventured into Tarbzon. Trabzon is a really really interesting city, with a very unique feel to it. I was surprised with how conservative the North was, but it makes sense as we were also so far East. We were one of the only women who were not wearing headscarves – and I saw more women in full burqas than I have ever seen in Turkey. There is also a certain energy to it, a hype that is difficult to explain. The windy streets were grey and cobbled and it looked very different to the cities I had visited before.  

We had decided that with our limited time we had to visit the Sumela Monastery. We arranged a bus to take us there. What a sight. This was by far one of the most impressive and beautiful things I have ever seen in my life. After about 20 mins of driving out the city, the landscape was so green and so luscious –it looked like it could have been a valley in France. There was also a ridiculous amount of walnut trees, we were informed that 80% of the world’s walnuts come from this area of Turkey. The drive began to wind itself round mountains and burbling streams. It was really beautiful with so many shades of green.  (50?) Nestled in the greenery was the Monastry – which looked like it as just hanging to the rockface. Built in the 1300 as a Christian retreat, and then conquered and remade in the 1800 it’s history was evident. It was interesting to see inscriptions in Arabic, Persian, Russian, and then eventually Turkish – giving a very physical representation to the history of the area. If you ever get the chance, go. It will blow your mind:

We returned to Trabzon in time to check out the market. The Trabzon women did not take very kindly to the foreign girls and I heard a few women say some very untoward things, but this did not deter us. We minced around the carsi, buying more scarves than needed and trying our luck at haggling in every possible situation. Shopping with Italian boys always takes a lot of time, as the hour or so in the scarf shop proved. We somehow managed to find our way back to the families house for another massive dinner. At around midnight we decided to depart, after a lot of convincing we should stay (and an awkward moment when one of the women told us her husband had been hitting her) we managed to convince them that we had to leave for our flight. This was after a brief session of Turkish dancing however; check this out for a prime example:

So, we headed into the night and back into Trabzon. We expected to be able to grab a beer and just chill before our flight at 6 am – the only trouble is…  Trabzon closes at 11pm. Literally nowhere was open. We wondered around with our backpacks on wondering how to kill 6 hours. Luckily, we saw some fellow Yabanci wondering around who were also on their Erasmus in Trabzon (why would you?) we asked what we could do for a few hours. They told us their was nothing to do, but suggested we grab some beers and head to the university as it was just next to the airport. After grabbing some Efes we discovered that the dolmus’s had also stopped running. After asking a shopowner how we could get there, he said he would drive us! And so we all jumped in his car, he locked up his shop and true to his word, dropped us at the university. Another demonstration of insane black sea hospitality!

When we arrived at the university we were greeted by a group of students who were on their wild Saturday night bike ride. They’re English was very limited, they were also very conservative and were shocked to see girls… girls drinking beer… wearing skirts. We had a lot of fun trying to understand each other.. “I get the ball…. You get the ball…. We have the ball…. We go get the ball… you have ball?” and “Do you know muslims?” Yes.. “Okay.”

When it got to 3 am we decided that we should leave with our balls and muslims – the conversation was getting ridiculously hard to follow and everyone was on a bit of a crazy sugar high from the cherry juice on offer.

Conclusions

-          People from the black sea are insanely friendly and helpful

-          It is probably best to wear a headscarf in Trabzon.

-          We still don’t know who has the ball

-          I am still scared of heights